Missing Out on Venice

Let’s talk about FOMO, the Fear Of Missing Out, that feeling that makes you do spontaneous things. and perhaps the only fear that’s worth real because The reality is we are always missing out, the sun rises, it sets, seasons change and years go by, therefore FOMO is perhaps the only that’s fear that is real. You may or may have missed the last super moon or the Azure Window in Malta but you still have a chance at Venice, a floating city that in a few years will have sunk back to where came from, the Adriatic Sea. 

Like Netherlands, Venice was built on water by Celtic refugees escaping from German invasion in the countryside of Italy in 400 AD. It survived to this day because construction was done strategically. On top of the hard clay ocean floor, wooden piles were laid to penetrate sand and mud. This has worked quite well because the wood, derived from Slovenian alder trees, is resistant to water and the piles are laid in air deprived environment making it harder to decay. Of top of the wooden piles, lies lstrian limestone over which the building foundations sit. After 21 years of sweat and blood a fish-shaped island with one large Grand Canal was born.

Fish Island

The island served well as a refuge but it also came with limitations. Buildings cannot have basements on the foundation, therefore unlike the norm, servants live in top floors. Moreover, construction of new buildings is limited to reduce pressure on the foundation which explains why most houses are old. In addition to that, the city suffers in high tide when the water can reach up to 180cm above sea level. Some towers are titled, due to uneven sinking. One pleasant side effect is that due to uneven sinking, you don’t have to go all the way to Pisa to see the leaning tower.

Leaning Tower of Veice

The level high tide water can reach

Erosion effect of high tide water

I hope by now you are convinced that Venice is a peculiar city. A notable peculiarity is that there are no taxis or trains or Uber in Venice. The island is very small that everything is within a walking distance. When you do walk, it is guaranteed that you will get lost. Even if you use Google maps, you will find yourselves in a dead-end or circling around the same Campo more often than you like. On some rare occasions, a street that looks like a dead-end will lead you to your destination.

Not a deadend

 It happens to every new comer and you can blame it on how the city was organized. Venice is essentially a collection of 117 small islands separated by narrow canals. In the old days, each island was its own independent village, characterized by its own church (Catholic), square (Campo) and a well. These villages almost look the same which is why after every 2 minutes, you’ll see a similar set, panic and walk in circles. Well, at least it’s not uphill.

A well

A church

In the church

Pretty things

...And  a square make an island

As you walk, you’ll see lots of people, perhaps too many for such a small island. Worry out, half of them are tourists just like you. The population of the historic city of Venice is about 55000 and there are about as many tourists per day every day. 25% of Venetians are pensioners, the highest population of old people in Italy, just like the city, the people are also growing old.

Venice is a friendly city. It is one of the few cities where it is perfectly safe to walk at any time of the day. Just make sure you observe ‘traffic’ rules. Since there are no cars, you have to imagine yourself as being a car on a narrow road. Like a car, you walk on the right side of the street, before you stop to take a selfie ask yourself if a car would stop, creating a traffic jam in the process.  When you hear ‘permissio’ from the back, make way, it’s a ‘truck’ (porter carrying heavy luggage) that has more privilege than you. When someone shouts ‘bergusso’ at you then you have probably been a reckless driver and its best if you don’t find out the meaning of the word. Having some privacy might prove to be difficult because in addition to practical reasons, Venetians are curious people. This trait comes as a result of narrow streets and light walls that makes it so that much harder to ignore other people’s business. And yes, if you don’t follow the customs, you will be the subject of gossip.

 

Vaporetto

Quiet and Beautiful Venice

Art is one huge reason to visit Venice, whether you are not an art expert or like me, not very well versed. Venetians talk about art, art in all its forms especially paintings and music. An easy conversation starter is Antonio Vivaldi, a prominent classical musician, with an interesting story. Vivaldi was born with asthma, supposedly on an earthquake day, the terror of which caused his mother to consecrate him as a priest. He did complete priesthood training but didn’t last a year as a priest because of asthma. Even though asthma came in the way of playing wind instruments, he maximized on his strength – the violin. He finely perfected his craft that he was commissioned by Emperors and his music lives to this day. I’m not classical music but I find his music good for concentration.

Vivaldi 

Things I found at the music museum

Venetian instruments

pretty istruments

You can’t talk about Venice without the paintings One museum isn’t enough for it all because paintings are preserved in each of the 137 churches of Venice. This explains why some churches have entrance fees and a list of painters at the entrance. Bright colors and emotion in Venetian paintings will eventually convert into an art lover. Slowly, you’ll find yourself recognizing Titian and Tintoretto’s painting and arguing about them. 

They are after all the flagships of Venetian art. Titian Vercelli is considered to the ‘Sun Amidst the small stars’, the most versatile Renaissance painter of his time and the master of colors.

Titian's painting 

 He took his time to perfect his craft sometimes taking up to 2 years to complete one paintng. 

Assunta by Titian took 2 years

 With his genius came a minor flow though, jealousy. When his brother got acknowledged for painting at the church of St. Vito, Titian sent him to soldering. Another victim of his jealousy was his student, Jacopo Comin, now famously known as Tintoretto. 

Tintoretto

Jacopo’s nickname is derived from the fact his father was a dyer, (tintore in Venetian), hence Tintoretto stands for little dyer. His parents sent him to Titian after he showed a knack for painting. Titian, out of jealousy, sent him back after only 10 days. Jacopo on the other hand, continued to flourish. His unique Baroque style of muscular figures, dramatic gestures and bold use of perspective, combined colorful Venetian style, earned him the title of II Furioso.

 

Tintoretto's painting of the Last Supper

 

You will also notice that in Venice and Italy at large, religion and art are inseparable. The relationship between the church and artists is mutual. The church commissioned painters to paint biblical scenes and held musical competitions to produce hymns. The artists looked to religion for inspiration. This explains a lot why artists migrated here from elsewhere. In addition to that, portrait painters were drawn to the rich families when Venice was the trade center of the world.

Another good reason to visit Venice is Ghetto, the most common English word borrowed from Venice. Campo Ghetto is where the Jews lived and unlike the rest of Europe, it wasn’t because of Anti-Semitism. Jews were very much welcome in Venice due to their business acumen and handcraft. Unlike Catholicism, their religion allowed loan lending, something the Venetians appreciated to develop their boats and ships. Campo Ghetto got its name because Ghetto means iron residues and Jews were very involved in iron works.

Campo Ghetto by night

Campo Ghetto

Most people go to Venice for gondola rides. That is of course those who can afford 80Euros per ride.  The price is a reflection of how much investment it requires. Gondoliers spend up to 6 months to craft one Gondola, using imported wood from the mainland mountains. Since it is mostly used by tourists, the law requires that the driver ought to Venice born and they act as licensed tour guides. Tourism alone is enough reason to make it that much expensive but if you are money-conscious like me, you can, like a local, ride a sandolo, a smaller gondola that is 40 times cheaper. Although the ride only lasts a few minutes, it is enough time to take that selfie.

Fancy Gondola's

Gondola's everywhere

Something that you will not miss in Venice is the face masks, they are everywhere. Once upon a time, when democratic elections were introduced in Venice, and only men were allowed to vote, men wore the bauta (plain white full face masks) to hide their identity. They of course extended its use to other activities where their identity was best left unknown, activities like gambling and infidelity. Women’s masks might be pretty today but the original ones had little to be desired, they were plain white intended to shut them up. Artisan-made masks go for as much as 500Euro, but there are of course Chinese alternatives for cheap people like me.

Artisan masks

Masks now used in the carnival

Piazza San Marco is perhaps the most overpopulated spot and for good reason. Surrounded by the Basilica of St. Mark, St. Mark Campanile, Duke’s Palace, Procuratie Vecchie, Procuratie Nuove and  Palazzo Ducale  it will inevitable make you pull your camera.

#WhoAmIToResistAPictureInABeautifulSquare

 In addition to the things named after St. Mark, you will see many statues of winged lions around, that you will get curios.

St. Marks Campanile

Winged lion

 In an attempt to be a major center of the world, Venetians changed their patron saint from St. Theodore to the more famous St. Mark. There is even a myth that St. Mark was once in Venice where he had a dream that an angel in the form of a flying lion informed him that he would be buried in the city. Even though he was buried in Egypt, Venetians stole his remains to place them in San Marco Basilica. To feed this obsession, they stole the 4 horses of St. Mark from the Hippodrome of Constantinople in the fourth crusade. These horses are treasured that the original ones are preserved in the Basilica while replicas are placed outside. Whether or not St. Mark had that dream or not doesn’t matter, Venetians are not letting go of their patron saint.

St Mark

The Grand Duke’s Palace may be attracting thousands of visitors today, it was not as desirable from the 15^th century, especially not by convicts. Justice was administered through a hearing took place in Quarantia Criminale in the Palace with the convict standing over a red marked section of the porch. He’d be lucky if he got imprisonment. In this case, he would walk over the Bridge of Sighs which is enclosed to prevent escape, towards the New Prisons. Although the prisons were ill-kept, allowed dirty water from the canal in, it was much better to the alternative, death penalty.

Where the criminals stood

Doge's Palace

Last chance of redemption: Crossing the pillar

The enclosed bridge of Sighs

If sentenced to death penalty the convict had one last chance to redeem himself by walking over a designated pillar without losing balance. If he failed, he would meet his fate facing the clock tower, after walking the walk of shame between granite columns St. Theodore and a winged lion. Earlier than this, criminals were tortured by dismemberment where their limbs were attached to 4 horses who were pulled apart to tear him. Their flesh remains were hanged publicly on hooks to remind the people of the fate of crime. This pretty much explains the low crime rate.

Walk of shame between the lion ad St.Theodore

Hanging for hanging flesh remains

Even though it is a small island, there are city secrets that you might miss out on. Everything on St. Mark’s square might be expensive but there are cheaper alternatives. A cheap palace to visit is Palazzo Contarini which not only exposes you to art and palace life but also offers an incredible 360’ view of Venice, I dare say better than St. Mark’s Campanile. 

Views from Palazzo Contarini

#Views

Palazzo Contarini

Stairs at the Palazzo

Painting at the palace

If you are not at peace with the idea of paying to visit churches, you are not alone. There are churches that are free and have magnificent paintings. You can also view free paintings at the hospital, which you may confuse for a museum. 

Museum Hospital

In the hospital

It is adorned with magnificent paintings, walls and ceilings and of course it is free to enter. There you will get to see Venetian ambulances which are of course boats.

If you walk around Piazza San Giovanni, you will stumble upon ‘Libreria Acqua Alta’ the self-proclaimed most beautiful bookshop in the world.

 In there you will of course find books, everywhere, in shelves, in a gondola, on the façade, on the floor.

Books staircase

books everywhere

 The use of books has been used to make stairs and heaps because there is little else they can do after being flooded in high tides. As a matter of fact, unlike other stores, this bookshop does nothing to protect its’ goods from high tides. Even to non-book lovers, it wins the title of most interesting bookstore.

If you walk further out from the buzz, you will be surprised to find trees and parks and of course a magnificent view of the sea. You will then realize why Titian chose to live here.

#Views

Park

In addition to the things to do, there are things not to be done in Venice. No matter how it is, touching the canal water is a no-no. Without the strong tides and winds, the water odor would reveal its content.  All I was told is that sewage systems are a very recent invention.  Moreover, though in Italy, Venice is not the place for pizza. A fire accident in 1996 at the Fenice theatre that proved fatal since all houses are made of wood. A fatal consequence was that all wood burning ovens were banned making Venetian Pizza Less Italian. Rather have chickettes, sea food and wine instead.

Waking up to Venezia

Floods at the square

 A lot can be said of Venice and its surrounding islands; this is just the little I learnt in 48 hour stay. It’s sad to imagine that such a treasure trove is slowly sinking away. Yes, you are missing out and yes, FOMO is a good enough reason to justify a visit, just do so sustainably so we may have it for a little longer.