On Medici and Renasissance masters .. [Florence]

I spent about 24 hours in Florence, I definitely should have stayed longer. Even though the Florence metropolitan is small there is so much to explore and unlike Venice it takes a lot of effort to get lost. Walking around exposed me to historical sculptures, the scenery all of which reminded me why Florence was the capital of Italian Renaissance.

Basilica Santa Maria Novella

I thought I had seen it all when I saw the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, I couldn’t be more wrong. Turns out it was just an introduction, considering, it was consecrated in 1420, making it the first great Basilica in Florence. The bar was raised on seeing the behemoth that is Florence Cathedral.  Known as Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, the cathedral with its accompanying campanile and baptistry are part of UNESCO World Heritage Site for a good reason. Something about the dome, the white marble, the green marble panels and subsequently the flow of tourists that made me stop to appreciate the view. Both the interior and exterior were made for perfection, giving a good explanation for 140 years of construction. 

The Florence Cathedral

Who am I to resist the facade?

Side view

The baptistry

Inside the Cathedral

The dome from the inside

Being the masters Renaissance and of course they like to show it off. You don’t need to pay for a gallery ticket to see Renaissance sculptures, all you need is to walk around because you’ll eventually stumble upon Piazza della Signoria and the open-air gallery Loggia dei Lanzi. There you’ll find Renaissance sculptures I like to refer to as talking sculptures. Unlike Classical art, renaissance sculptures is all about describing the emotional and human side of the story, a relatable story.

 Instead of portraying David as a self-assured, heroic lad, Micheloangelo sculpted a tense David right before stoning Goliath, a relatable hero. Perseus may have been a hero and founder of dynasties, but Cellini sculpted him right after he beheaded the hideous Medusa, with the Medusa’s head in his right hand, a bit frightened by his action. According to Roman Mythology, Hercules was a divine hero, but Giambolona chose to sculpt a moment from a ordinary night. The night a flirty Centaur, Nessus, tried to snatch his wife as they were crossing a bridge back home. Like a human husband he defended his territory, by beating the centaur to death. Giambolona chose to immortalize the moment Hercules beat Nessus onto white marble. In a similar fashion, the Renaissance portrayals of  Menalus and Patroclus, the rape of Polyxena, the rape of Sabine women can be seen from the porch.

Judith and Holofernes

Loggia dei Lanzi

The Piazza

The famous David by Micheloangelo

Perseus after killing Medusa

Menalus and Patroclus

A failed attempt at posing like David

Having produced very influential figures in politics, art, literature and science; Florentines have the right to show off. Adjacent to Piazza del Signoria is the art gallery Piazzale degli Uffizi, which of course contains magnificent Renaissance paintings. On the gallery porticos are 28 niches with statues marked with very familiar names like Galileo Galilei, Leonardo da Vinci, Nicolo Machiavelli, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Donatello among many others. For a second, I considered moving to Florence for the needle-in-haystack-chance of someday being famous. Maybe that’s impossible but it got me curious of on the influence of the small city to these outliers. 

Renaissance Madonna

Gallery Uffizi

Da Vinci

Niccolo Machiavelli

The answer is all in history. The word Florence comes from ‘Fluentia’ because it was built between 2 rivers. It started out a Roman city established by Ceasar in 59BC as settlement for his soldiers. It wasn't as prominent in the first millennium, due to Ostrogothic rule and wars with the Byzantine empire. 

The second millennium, on the other hand, was its time to shine, rightly referred as the Golden Age. A combination of access to the Mediterranean sea through the Amo river for international trade, the flourishing textile industry and innovative merchant banking skills gave the city the upper hand. This came hand in hand in hand with the rise of the merchant elite who indirectly ruled the city and pretty much controlled European trade. By 15^th century one Cosimo de Medici, was lending money to the pope among other governments making him the real ruler of Florence. Eventually, democracy was abandoned and power was passed from one Medici generation to the next. The dynasty had its failures but they made a lot of intellectual development can be attributed to them. Lorenzo Medici, an accomplished poet and musician himself trained and commissioned the works of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo among others, effectively catalyzing art. Galileo Galilei worked under the patronage of Cosimo II Medici. At this point my question was answered, the magic formula for intellectual development is an additive function of talent and sponsorship.

It is believed Da Vinci lived here

Medici Chapel

In one Medici's Palace

Palazzo things

The Golden Bridge

At Palazzo Pitti

Palazzo Pitti

Having only just over 24 hours in Florence, I couldn’t fit in a run but I definitely fitted in a short hike up to Piazzale Michelangelo. The way leading there was not boring either. I majestically crossed the Golden Bridge over River Amo like the Medici’s would in horses to Palazzo Pitti. In addition to the historical beautiful sculptures, I started noticing peculiar road signs which I initially dismissed as street art. Turns out a French artist Clet Abrahams has been busy at night decorating the streets with stickers that add a little fun to road safety signs. Like the Medici's, the municipality approves. It became a fun game seeking the next sign. I even came across his studio where I was spoiled with peculiar and controversial art. 

Peculiar street signs

In Clet's studio

“Wow!”, that was the first word I uttered when I arrived on Piazzale Michelangelo. There were fewer tourists than usual for a winter’s evening, street musicians, a wedding, the view, did I mention the view? Within my angle of sight, was the river, slowly flowing, soaking lights from the city. I also got the top view of the Florence Cathedral, of people going about their daily lives, Torre di San Nicollo on the slopes of the hills among many other things Florence had to offer. The square was made to honor the Florentine sculptor Michelangelo, with a museum. Although the museum didn't actualize, the scenery, a bronze statues of David and the four allegories of Medici Chapel, have served the function so far.

The Hike

The Cathedral from the hill

The Golden Bridge on River Amo

Michelangelo's art

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Florence by night

Florence is one city I should have spent more time on. I know so because the series of events that followed live little to be desired. 

Galileo's middle finger 

The finger ...

Science in Medici times

AtMuseo Galilei

In an effort to explore more, I got to see Galileo’s middle finger of his right hand but I also missed my airport bus, my flight to Barcelona, my phone and the bit sanity I still had.It was crucial that I leave the very day because I was attending the WIML workshop, so a new ticket cancelled Budapest off my itinerary. I really admire travelers who fit in everything in a few hours.  As for me I prefer to take my time, take it all in until I’ve had enough. That said, I will be back, Florence, and next time I’ll give you all the attention you deserve.