Monday, April 3, 2017

[Barcelona]..The city of wanderers and one Gaudi




Half a millennium ago, an Italian wanderer set off for Japan through an alternative route, little did he know that he would entirely change the course of history. Travel was of course expensive which is why he needed a better excuse for this expedition. He proposed Christianity and trade through the west and after rejections from four monarchies, the Spanish Crown agreed to sponsor him to expand the Spanish Inquisition. Upon stumbling on the New World, he killed, evangelized and colonized the Indians in their own land. He returned to Barcelona where he was not only majestically received by the monarchy but also a humongous monument has been raised to honor him. Whether or not his actions were morally sound, I’m not one to judge but I can definitely relate to his insane desire to explore; exactly what I did in Barcelona.

The monument of Columbus

Barcelona lives up to this icon by offering everything for everyone and even forces you out of your comfort zone. My knowledge of football is less than basic but I found myself at the Barca FC stadium. In between the football lingo that I didn't understand I enjoyed learning about how the club has lived up to its mission of uniting people and the victories it has accrued. I, of course couldn't resist the golden shoes of Lionel Messi and thousands of trophies on display. My competitive side was inspired.

At the stadium



Shoes and trophies




Being the adrenaline junkie I am, I didn’t pass any opportunity to move my legs. Every morning I would look forward to running along the promenade where I would get lost and then enjoy the view of the fake but beautiful Olympic harbor, the Mediterranean Sea soaking in city lights, the conspicuous monument of Christopher Columbus that was intended to face the New World. I also noticed that there are two kinds of crazy people you meet on the streets of Barcelona at 5 am, there is of course, runners who will greet you with a happy 'good morning' and the even more adventurous party animals looking for their homes. It was an interesting scenario to watch. A walk along the beach is another thing I tried to do. I walked along the beach from the Convention Centre to Ave Parallel on the slopes of Montjuic. Although I enjoyed the views and the energy of hundreds of other runners, it was a 2 hour walk that I don’t recommend to any sane person. 

Barcelona by night

Beach views




I also traveled miles away to hike up Montserrat, but I owe my appetite for it from Montjuic. The hike up Montjuic was short and sweet and on the way I was rewarded with beautiful views of sculptures, gardens, fountains, the city and of course the Mediterranean Sea, before finally reaching the Montjuic castle where the French astronomer Pierre Francois Andre Mechain made observations leading to the invention of the metre.

#ViewsFromMontjuic

#CopycatsGonnaCopy

Castle on the hill

Montjuic Castle



#FunWasHad


You may have deduced by now that I’m also a history buff, well, you are right and Barcelona didn’t disappoint in that aspect. With all the museums, monuments and Basilicas, a stroll through the Gothic Quarter turned out to be quite pleasant. I was obviously drawn to the magnificence of the Barcelona Cathedral not just by its size but its decors, and the fully blown statue of the patron saint of Barcelona, Saint Eulalia. I almost mistook it for the Sagrada Familia until I learned that the cathedral is not only bigger but older, surpassing Sagrada Familia by at least 4 centuries. 
Couldn't resist the facade


Saint Eulalia


The heavenly interior



Out of curiosity, I learnt about Eulalia, the 13-year old virgin who survived 13 tortures before being decapitated. It is believed that a dove flew off her neck as she was beheaded, considering that the girl had to endure crucifixion, cutting of breasts among other sadistic tortures, I can totally believe the myth. I also got to see her altar carefully hidden in the streets from tourists.

The saint's altar


 You know I hanged out with rebellious Spaniards because I learnt about the Spanish Civil War. A very significant and recent war born out of a power struggle between Republicans and Nationalists in 1936 to 1939. Even though it is not documented in any of the 50 museums of the city, remains of the shootings and bombings  on the church wall of Santa Maria del Pi serve the purpose. 
the church wall




The art and architecture in Barcelona will amaze you whether you appreciate art or not. You will of course see ordinary buildings but you will also see peculiar ones that will make you stop for selfies. More likely than not, that will be the work of Antoni Gaudi. Born in small town Reus, Gaudi had the humblest of beginnings. He took pride in his pride in his Mediterranean which instilled in him appreciation for creativity and originality. After the death of his mother, he worked as a draughtsman to support himself through college. Contrary to your expectations, he scored very average grades and even failed a few courses. It was after graduation that his light started shining, his career progressed from minor projects like designing lampposts and private palaces (Casas). Soon, his work got recognition and one industrialist Eusebi Guell who commissioned him to design the beautiful Parc Guell. He was later commissioned to work on Sagrada Familia into which he poured his heart and soul for the last decade of his life. Even though the Basilica looks so glorious today, it is just past halfway through its completion. Drawing inspiration from religion and nature, Gaudi earned his place as God’s architect.


Sagrada Familia from Parc Guell


In parc guell



The work of Gaudi




When Catalan aesthetes are not talking about Gaudi, they speak of Picasso. Understandably so since their similarities are quite striking. Both lived in the 19th and 20th centuries, moved to Barcelona at some point and loved their work so much that they didn’t mind being average students. Raised by his painter father Picasso, learnt so much that he surpassed his father, took advanced classes and ended up inventing the Cubism movement over 5 periods (Blue, Rose, African-influenced, Analytic Cubism and synthetic cubism). Although I’m not a big art fan, a visit to the Picasso museum turned out to be quite a treat and may or may not have been inspired by free student entrance. 

Stumbling upon Architecture





Unlike Rome, Barcelona isn’t as historical, Barcelona's the arc of triumph wasn’t built for some king/emperor a millennium ago, but for the 1888 Barcelona World Fair. Gaudi and Picasso are the most celebrated artists and they hail from only a century ago. If you get to chat with a local, they will most likely be talking about the independence of Catalonia  or their beloved Barcelona FC standing true to the Catalan motto of unity and if that’s not enough the city will immerse you in splendid street art. Christopher Columbus may have lost significance but  that’s okay because the city's recent affairs are enough to keep you occupied. Till next time!



#Gaudi

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