You know how I always talk about perseverance and determination? These traits were recently put in action on climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa . This is a guest post by my brother, Engineer Dominic Mosha who inspires me in so many ways. The story definitely inspired to push myself to the limits , I hope to one day share my hike up the mountain too! Alright, enough spoilers, its a long one so grab a cuppa and enjoy!
My Kilimanjaro Mountain Climbing Story
By
Eng. Dominic R. Mosha
Table of Contents
PART I: The Dream
PART II: The Climbing
Day One: 20th February 2016
Day Two: 21st February 2016
Day Three: 22nd February 2016
Day Four: 23rd February 2016
Day Five: 24th February 2016
Day Six: 25th February 2016
Day Seven: 26th February 2016
PART III: Lessons Learnt and Legacy
My Kilimanjaro Mountain Climbing Story
PART I: The Dream
If you can dream it you can do it – Walt Disney
It started with a dream, that transformed to the desire. It became a desire that before I turn 36, I should have climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro, the tallest mountain in Africa. This desire was propelled by the fact that, the age of 35 is regarded by many standards as the mark of turning to adulthood from youthfulness. Therefore it was this mark that I wanted to mark my life with the some form of a challenge.
In fact this dream was cemented after I saw one of my friends Mr. Edgar Mwasha did the same. He posted pictures on the Facebook in March 2015, and it struck my spine that I will have to do this sooner than I thought. I corresponded with him from which he connected me to Mr. Andrew Mboma, Managing Director of Vinjari Company Ltd, a tour company that coordinates Park Safaris, Mt. Kilimanjaro Climbing being one of them. Vinjari organizes Mount Kilimanjaro Climbing tours twice a year that is in February/ March and July/August. We exchanged communication with the intention of climbing in August 2015. However this was not feasible due to my work schedule. I therefore postponed it to 2016 with the strong desire to fulfill this adventure.
In January 2016, Vinjari confirmed the prospects of the Climbing Adventure via Machame route that will take 7 days from 20th February 2016. We started exercising on 04th January 2016 at the University of Dar es Salaam hills and on personal basis frequently at the Wazo hills, Dar es Salaam. This was mainly to build muscle strength and improving the breathing capacity. It is from the exercises that I learnt that there will be only two determined climbers out of the large group of about 8 people who had interest, that was Me and Ms. Zawadi Mageni.
On 19th February 2016, the climbers met in Moshi with the subcontractor of Vinjari Company Ltd, M/s Kili Base Adventures Ltd managed by Mr. Sifaeli Malle. We chose climbing gears, packed our bags, given the orientation of the Mountain and what the climb would be like, introduced to the Guides and Chefs, and depicted our preference on food and beverages. At this juncture, we realized that “THIS IS IT” we have gathered much courage to get this far, there is no turning back.
PART II: The Climbing
“After Climbing a Great Hill, one only find there are so many hills to climb”-Nelson Mandela
Day One: 20th February 2016
We left Moshi town at 09:10 AM to Machame Gate where we arrived at 10:20 AM. We made stops along the way to buy some consumables for the trek to the Roof of Africa. We registered at Machame gate as per procedure. We were the only two Tanzanians at Machame Gate on the day and I realized that it is not a common practice for common Tanzanians to trek this mountain. Being Tanzanians, we were greeted with joy by the porters and guides at Machame Gate, all appreciating us for making this decision for exploring the Mighty Kili. It was a very patriotic gesture.
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Fig.1:In Tour van heading to Machame Gate
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We had a quick lunch at the gate, and met the Blue monkey who snatched a banana and muffin out of my lunch box. Frankly, the monkey was clever, sharp and quick. However, being a tourist it was a pleasant experience. I even got a “selfie” with the Blue Monkey.
Our walk to Machame Hut, commenced at 12:00 PM. The placard at Machame gate depicted the walking distance to be 11 km, at the estimated duration of 5 hrs. Machame Gate sits at 1,800 meters above sea level (masl). We walked through the Rainforest most of the 11km stretch where we got to experience and appreciate nature, cool weather, green environment and water falls. At 1500 hrs we were half way to Machame Hut so we had snacks.
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Fig.3: In front of Machame Gate
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Fig.4: The climb begins
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An hour to Machame Hut, the terrain became steeper and vegetation changed from rain forest to short bushes. This was an indication that the camp site was closer but tough to be reached. However, by 1730 hrs (5:30hrs climbing duration) we arrived at Machame Hut which is at altitude of 3,000 m.a.s.l and registered as required.
It was my first camping experience, however I found it adventurous and loved it. Our tents were set, and the chefs had prepared tea, popcorn and biscuits for warming up as it was getting cold. A little later, we had dinner, a-three-course meal. Vegetable soup and bread as starter; Ugali wa donna, mnafu and fried potatoes as the main course; and tea/coffee for desert.
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Fig.6: My sleeping place for the next 6 nights….
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It was Zawadi’s birthday, hence the Guides and Porters had carried a cake for her. We sang for her and the cake was shared by everyone. It was an adventurous way of celebrating life.
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Fig.7: Happy Birthday Zawadi Mageni
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This was the first day of the climb, we had a gain of 1,200 meters in altitude. It was rather cold at night but bearable.
Day Two: 21st February 2016
Started at around 0630 hrs waking up, and morning cleanliness. I captured pictures of the Kibo Peak as viewed from the Machame Hut. We had breakfast and by 0850hrs we started trekking towards Shira camp. The signpost at Machame Gate indicated the distance from Machame Hut to Shira Camp to be 5 km at estimated climbing duration of six hours.
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Fig.8: The Kibo Peak as viewed from Machame Hut
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It was a steep climb with support of hiking sticks throughout unlike the previous day. There were rock terrains of which using hands seemed convenient than the hicking sticks. As we climbed, we noticed the vegetation becomes shorter and scarce. This is categorized as Heath and Moorland Climate/Vegetation Zone, and is characterized in between 2,800-4,000 m.a.s.l.
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Fig.9: Hiking sticks aside
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We arrived and registered at Shira Camp on 13:35 (5:45 hrs trekking duration). The camp sits at around 3,850 m.a.s.l. It was cold, I had headache and had lost appetite. I was advised that this is common when climbing due to change in altitude (850m), which propels oxygen deficiency. However, I had pain killers, drank a lot of water. As usual we found our tents set thus I had a deep sleep of about an hour or so and then lunch was served. I had to push through to eat despite my lost appetite, thanks to the caring chefs who made some ginger-lemon tea and green vegetables (chuku-chuku) for lunch. I managed to munch as much as I could.
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Fig.10: Arriving at Shira camp
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At the camp, we had to acclimatize so as to reduce the sickness. Hence, we took a guided walk around to the caves which in the past when tents were such an expense and safety regulations weren’t stringent, the porters and guides slept in. You can appreciate what they went through despite the harsh coldness they survived. There were stones piled where one can add a stone and make a wish or rather a prayer. I added a stone for my children, and a prayer for them to endure and preserve the hardships that they might pass through in their lives.
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Fig.11:Shira caves
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Fig.12: A stone of inspiration
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We returned to the camp, had a little rest and dinner was served. The night was cold and windy. However, it was a satisfying moment at night when the moon gleams over the Kibo Peak of Mount Kilimanjaro. It was magnificent sight, at some point you thought a threatening beast looking at you. It was generally lovely.
Day Three: 22nd February 2016
It is third day, as usual we woke up, freshened up and took morning photos. Mt. Meru was visible so as the Shira Plateau. It was a bit warmer. Though my appetite was not great and had a mild headache I managed to have breakfast. Took pain killers and our journey to Barranco Camp via Lava Tower commenced.
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Fig.13: The Kilimanjaro as viewed from the Shira Camp
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At 08:40 AM, we started our journey to the Lava tower that is elevated at 4,640 m.a.s.l with the trekking distance of 7 kms and estimated duration of 4 hours. It took us 5:30 minutes to reach the tower. It was cold and foggy. We had a quick lunch, took photos and from 14:30 we started descending to Barranco Camp that sits on around 3,950 m.a.s.l. It was a descent through the rocky pathways, tiresome but adventurous. It is estimated to take two hours to the camp (3 km), however it took us 2:30 hours to get there. We registered as usual and found our way to our tents.
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Fig.14: At the Lava Tower
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The vegetation and climate was still Heath and Moorland, however as we approached Lava Tower we noticed the change to Alpine Desert (4,000-5,000 m.a.s.l) and as we also saw the moorland vegetation of which we saw many Groundsels/Scenecias plants (Dendrosenecio kilimanjarii) and the Mountain Pineapples (Lobelia deckenii).
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Fig.15: In front of Groundsels/Scenecias plants (Dendrosenecio kilimanjarii)
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It was foggy, and the rain poured thereafter. Though my appetite was not normal, thanks to the chefs for Zucchini soup with black paper and lemon juice that refueled my drained energy. It was third day, longest so far. It was cold at night, but bearable.
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Fig.16: Registering at Barranco Camp
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Day Four: 23rd February 2016
The fourth climbing day started usually with a morning view of the mountain and surroundings captured. We were better this morning no headaches as well as appetites were back. After the breakfast we had to hit the pathway to Barranco Wall then Karanga Valley and finally Karanga camp at 4,040 m.a.s.l with the distance of 4 kms and estimated hiking duration of 4 hours.
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Fig.17: The mountain as viewed from Barranco Camp
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Hiking up Barranco Wall, does not require the hiking sticks but rather limbs i.e. hands and foots. The terrain is rocky and steep so, one step at a time, deep breaths and a lot of drinking water to curb the increment in attitude. We passed through the Kissing-Rock Point, where the passage is narrow between a cliff and trough. There is no way to get across the rock without kissing it. Thanks to the guides for their support that my fear on drop-height vanished. It took us two solid hours to finish the Barranco Wall, had a little rest and headed to Karanga valley, a source of water for the river Karanga in Moshi. We arrived at Karanga Camp at 1430 hrs.
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Fig.18: Crossing the Kissing-Rock Point
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Speaking of the hurdles of hiking up the Barranco wall, you realize how God gifts every one of us differently to cope with our circumstances. Looking at the porters with their 20 kgs luggage and the way they fast and effortlessly maneuver along the Barranco wall, you appreciate the talents and capacity granted to every one of us bearing our circumstances. By the way, there were FEMALE porters up there. We met three of them along the way.
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Fig.19:Porters in action at Barranco Wall
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Fig.20: With Female Porter.
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At Karanga Camp, we had lunch and rested for the rest of the day. The weather was cold but OK. Our chefs made us Chips Kuku and lots of Kachumbari. The appetite was great and no illness. I did the warriors dance with porters and enjoyed the scenes. It was great day.
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Fig.21:Flowers at Karanga Valley
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Fig.22: the Mountain Pineapples (Lobelia deckenii)
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Day Five: 24th February 2016
It started as usual with the beautiful morning view of the mountain captured. Mt. Meru was also very clearly visible. Had our breakfast ready for the journey to Barafu Camp (4,640 m.a.s.l) with hiking distance of 4 km and estimated duration of 4 hrs.
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Fig.23: Mt. Meru as viewed from Karanga Camp.
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Hiking started at 09:30 AM with an uphill climb which two hours to climb and Barafu camp was visible from this point. However, from this point, it took us another two hours and thirty minutes to get to the camp. The last 30 mins of the hike were toughest of the day. We arrive at Barafu Camp at 1300 hrs, registered and proceeded to get some rest. We had lunch, and by now we were used to the altitude gain so no loss of appetite but I had a slight headache.
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Fig.24:Strenous stretch to Barafu Camp
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Fig.25: Arriving at Barafu Hut
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After the lunch siesta, we were briefed on summiting the peak. We were given options to choose between 00:00 AM or 03:00 AM departure. We considered the level of exposure to wind and cold weather and we chose the latter.
We had dinner and slept early, aspiring to summit the Roof of Africa.
Day Six: 25th February 2016
This is it. This is the day that the Lord hath made we shall rejoice and be glad in it.
We woke up at 02:30 AM, freshen up with a cup of tea and biscuits started our last leg to the summit at 03:00 AM with our headlamps on. To reach Uhuru Peak is a 5,895 m.a.s.l from Barafu Camp 4,640 m.a.s.l, we had to pass through Stella Point that sits on 5,756 m.a.s.l. The hiking distance to Stellar Point is 4 km with estimated duration of 6 hrs, where distance from Stellar to Uhuru Peak is 1 km with estimated duration of 1 hour.
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Fig.26: Sun rise over Mawenzi Peak
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It took us 7 hours to reach the Stella Point. It was the most strenuous toughest stretch of the entire adventure up the Mount Kilimanjaro. At the crack of the dawn, it was sunny, yet cold, and the very low level of oxygen ever experienced. This was attributed by low atmospheric pressure that keeps on dropping as the altitude increases. At the sea level it reads 1.01 bar, where at Barafu camp and Stella point is 0.57 bar and 0.49 bar respectfully. It was a tiresome and serious baby steps hike. However, it was beautiful to witness the rising Sun over Mawenzi Peak, it was scenery. Thanks to our guides for providing a hand and shoulder that was highly demanded, to our willpowers for not giving up and to the Almighty GOD for keeping us healthy to this point as we witnessed several hikers descending without reaching this point. We had a cup of tea and a snack at Stella point, and a little rest.
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Fig.27: Happy to reach the Stella Point
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At 1020, our last lap commenced to Uhuru Peak. The terrain was now a bit friendly, however we had to manage our air intake and body activity as Oxygen is limited. The glaciers and snow were now within reach, the crater cradle was a bit distant.
1120 AM, we were there. Yes, we were at Uhuru Peak, 5,895 m.a.s.l , the Summit of Africa, the top of the Wonder of Africa, a World Heritage, and the World Highest Free Standing Mountain. I busted into tears, I was emotionally happy, filled with joy, that I am experiencing my own dream. It was a rejoicing moment.
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Fig.28: Approaching Uhuru Peak
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We took photos, and recorded a video up there. We thanked the Almighty God by singing the song by Yemi Alade, Na Gode (Swahili Version). I recorded an inspirational speech to my children, that they can pursue greater things in this world. It is within their willpower.
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Fig.29:Tears of Joy and Triumph
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Fig.30: Triumphantly at the Peak
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We had Uhuru Peak to ourselves for about 30 minutes before we started to descend at 1150hrs . Descending was somehow rewarding interms of breathing but tiresome on knees especially on those steep slopes from Stella Point to Barafu Camp. Despite all this, we arrived at Barafu Camp at 1600hrs.
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Fig.31: Enjoying the moment at the Uhuru Peak.
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At Barafu Camp, we met Mr. Fred Moshi the only Tanzanian to have summited Mt.Everest. He was guiding tourists to the summit the following night. We were happy, cause we talked about climbing several year ago but there was no action.
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Fig.32: With Mr. Fred Moshi
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We had lunch and a nap at Barafu Camp at 18:00hrs we started descending to the High Camp, 3797 m.a.s.l. We arrived there at around 08:45PM, had tea, dinner and slept.
Day Seven: 26th February 2016
It started with breakfast and a morning pictures as usual. After the breakfast we triumphantly sang songs, had a group picture and thanked everyone for making the Mount Kilimanjaro Climb a great success.
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Fig.33: With Guides, Chefs and Porters at the High (Millenium) Camp
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We started descending to Mweka Gate at 0820hrs. The weather was just perfect, clear skies and a bit sunny. It was scenery, we passed through the Moorland and Heath Climate and got into Rainforest to the gate. We saw the beautiful Protea flowers along the way.
We arrive at Mweka Hut (3,100 m.a.s.l) at 10:00hrs. We had a short break and continue descending to Mweka Gate where we arrived at 13:15hrs. We were received by Mr. Sifael, and we registered our way out.
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Fig.36: Mr. Sifael received us at the Mweka Gate, a happy moment.
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Following the successful climbing we were awarded with Certificates, popped Champagne. We once again thanked the team for their roles. Our team had two guides, three chefs, and five porters. We tipped them, a token of appreciation for their dedication on what they do.
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Fig.37: With our certificates of accomplishment
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PART III: Lessons Learnt and Legacy
Live a life that your children can be proud of and they will live a life you can be proud of. - Michael Josephson
It starts with your mind and ends with it as well. With the will-power/determination, preparation, perseverance and endurance it is possible to achieve almost anything. Pole Pole is a popular phrase up there, that is take you steps slowly and you will surely get there, it could be boring, tiresome but if that process is part of your plan or within your plan you just have to endure the process, and meanwhile persevere to get through to the bigger picture.
There goes a famous saying, “A journey of thousand miles starts with a single step”, so are the dreams and everything that you want to achieve in life, if you do not start you won’t get there. Thus by any means if you want to achieve the dream or rather a desired goal in life that first step is the most important milestone.
“So help us Lord…” was a key phrase in the mornings and when we retire in the evenings. It gave us hope, enlightened the strenuous journey which made it possible to reach to the goal. Believing in God, the most supreme God is the key to all achievements. God will always make a way when things get tough along the way, but you have to start and keep on trying. Miracles, I believe it is God’s revelation and intervention to us when we try hard and we find that thing are not within our capacities or reach.
To our children, It is very important to believe in yourselves. You can achieve anything that is legal in this life. At the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro, I dedicated the journey you. I said this journey should inspire, motivate, encourage you to achieve greater things in life. YOU CAN DO ANYTHING and YOU CAN BE ANYBODY, Nobody should tell you that you can’t do a thing, cause when one tells you that he/she just expresses his/her fears and weaknesses. BE WISE and SMART, PREPARE, PLAN, EXECUTE, BELIEVE, and I can assure you anything is possible. By the way, after the Mountain Kilimanjaro Climb I had a day to rest and on the 28th February 2016, I run a Kilimanjaro Tigo Half Marathon in Moshi and my time was 2 hrs and 20 minutes, not my personal best time but I did it. Most of my colleagues and friends told me that I could not be able to do it, but I did. My daughter and sons, hear your internal voices at times it is the truest and realistic rather than those from colleagues, friends and even us, your parents.
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Fig.38: In Kilimanjaro “Tigo” Half Marathon
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Fig.39: Completed the run
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My dear wife, I recall when we had telephone conversation after my descent. You told me, “you have inspired us babe”. Yes Dear, I have inspired you and hopefully we should try this challenge together in the near future when we still have the energy. I recall the other tele-conversation when I was at Machame Gate, you sounded worried and asked “is it real that you are going?” I responded “yes”, you wished me the best of luck. Thank you for praying for me through all this, God is good all the time, he listened to your prayers. You were a great support from the very infantry stage of this challenge. Thank you.
Will I attempt the hike again? For sure, I am determined to hike at least once in two years to test my fitness, appreciate nature, enjoy the tranquility which is great for rejuvenating the soul and mind. It is the moment you appreciate the diversity of human beings in relation to his/her circumstances. So Help Me Lord…!!!!
