Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Japan ... the land of Green Tea and Fish






As the title suggests this article is about my latest adventure – Japan. I was in Japan last week, attending ICFP (International Conference of Functional Programming). If you are interested in the actual conference read here, this article is about the fun part.

I arrived in Japan on Friday 16th September with lots of jetlag considering they are 7 hours ahead.  I arrived a day early to do some sightseeing which came pretty handy considering I woke up at noon the next day #Jetlag. I made good use of the half day by visiting most of the touristy places in Nara. Japan turned me from being an early riser to a night owl. Perhaps due to jetlag I couldn’t sleep up until 4 am everyday. Its taking a while to readjust but I’m not complaining.


Nara is a small town that was the first permanent capital of Japan. The capital was moved due to the threat of Buddhist monasteries. It is a tourist destination for that and many other reasons. The conference took place at the Nara Kasugano International Forum in NaraPark.

People:
People are so friendly, unbelievably friendly. When I arrived my phone was out of charge, so I couldn’t access google maps to get to my hotel and taxi drivers couldn’t understand English. A couple I met at a store were more than happy to escort me to my hotel. Whether it is motivated by cultural values or tourism, it definitely saved my life, literally. People are so approachable that you no longer feel like an outsider even though you look different. All around the city, there are visitor’s centers where tourists can just chill, use free-wifi, get directions and maps and experience different Japanese activities such as trying the Kimono, for free. All that you could ever need, especially when you are travelling solo.
Another observation I’ve had is that Japanese are very comfortable in their own skin, and it doesn’t mean they are not progressive. It’s a lesson that hit home very hard. While in Africa speaking broken English is a matter of shame, the Japanese don’t ever bat an eye, signs at the airport. They are more than comfortable to admit that they don’t speak English and those that are learning will be happy to practice their English with you.
In many places -restaurants, hotels, some shops- you have to take off your shoes outside. A very African tradition that is saving them lots of cleaning costs and time. There is not a lot of rubbish bins around yet the cities are sparkling clean. They are so disciplined that they take their rubbish to their home. I can only imagine how much cleaning expenses they are saving. African has a lot to learn from Japan.
Food:


As the title suggests, green tea is a major component of Japanese cuisine. Its offered in all sorts of forms, cold tea, hot tea, biscuits, kitkats (yes, green tea flavored chocolates) you name it. It’s the complimentary drink offered in restaurants, you find cold bottled green tea in vending machines that are literally everywhere. I guess that explains why the Japanese are so small.

If you look carefully , you will see Green tea flavored kitkats

I tried lots of other Japanese dishes, most of which was some form of rice and fish. These include Tempura, Takoyaki, Kushikatsu, Kushikatsu, Udon plus a couple others that I can barely pronounce. What stood out for me was tempura, and already trying the recipe. Throughout my stay I ate fish pretty much every day,  now understand why the Japanese are so smart.
Sightseeing in Nara:
I visited a couple of temples in Nara including the Todaiji temple, Kokufuji temple and Gangoji temple. They are very similar, Todaiji is different as it has a big statue of Buddha. I saw a couple of shrines but the grand Kasuga shrine stands out from the rest. As the name suggests, it is grand. There is a lots of history attached to it. It’s also a great running spot.
At the grand Kasuga shrine

I also hiked up the Wakakusayama hills. These are 3 hills lined in parallel that from the front it looks like one hill and from the side it looks like 3 hills. It’s a 20 minute hike, being used to hiking up to campus daily it was no big deal. You pay 150 Yen to hike but the view from the top was worth it.
View from the hills

I got to visit Naramachi as well. Naramachi is a small town that used to be a merchant town. There are many ancient shops (machiya) that have small store fronts because tax was calculated on the property’s street access not its area. Most of the houses there have red stuffed monkeys hanging from the door post. According to the Shiryokan religion, it brings luck. I intended to visit many of the museums but most of them were closed so I only visited the Shiryokan museum, which in addition to having free admission, offers explanation of the Shiryokan religion.

Naramachi treasures
shiryokan museum

red stuffed monkeys for luck





It would be a sin if I didn’t mention Nara deers.  Deers roam about the streets of Nara like its no big deal. They even have deer crackers and if you happen to have one, deers will bow to you. It is believed that bowing to the deers brings luck.
feeding deers

Shopping:
Spoiler alert, Japan is not the shopping destination with a student budget, at least not if you convert to African currencies before buying. It is cheaper compared to Western countries but not as cheap. Food is affordable but many other things are not, especially clothing and souvenirs. Being a tea lover, I loaded up on tea, all sorts of Japanese tea.

some very-expensive souvenirs

Osaka in a day:
On the last day, I toured around Osaka for the city experience. I got the Osaka Amazing Pass which I highly recommend to anyone going to Osaka, it gives you unlimited train access and entrance to the major touristy places for a day or two depending on which one you got. After getting lost at the not-small-and-confusing train stations, I visited Umeda, Namba and the Osaka Castle Area.
At Umeda, I visited the Sky Building floating garden, Hep Five Ferris Wheel and Osaka Science Museum. The sky building is a connected pair of skyscrapers 173 m high, that lets you overlook the cityscape of Osaka. The view was spectacular. It is one of the 20 tallest buildings and its construction introduced the lifting building technique. There is a lot to be learnt from Japanese design, from toilets that retain water from washing hands for flushing to construction technology. The Hep Ferris wheel is similar to the London eye; it gives a spectacular view of Osaka. There are also a gazillion of fashion and gourmet shops around.
Ferris wheel

Floating garden


An interesting spot was the Osaka Science Museum, a scientists’ heaven. While our children watch soap opera on Sunday afternoon, Japanese kids go to play at the science museum. The museum has fun demonstrations of hard-to-grasp physics concepts like Electromagnetism, Electrodynamics, Black Holes among many others. I remember watching 8 year olds playing with a toy generator to flash an LED and thinking just how much more they will have learnt and probably invented by the time they go to college. It is no mystery now why the Japanese and Asians are generally smart.
told you I like flying
Playground at the museum

trying to get smart



Namba was also an interesting site. I walked along the Namba walk which is an underground street with a gazillions of shops and many other services. I also took a stroll along Nara Parks. Being a huge station, I went around circles many times even though I had a map. I owe my survival to the strangers who were always willing to point me in the right direction.
Namba by night

Osaka by night


At the end of the day, my feet were sore but it’s a good thing I had a 28-hour flight to recover.  I wish I saw more of Tokyo but I only passed through the airport.
Tokyo airport


I have been to Western countries but Japan just felt different. On one hand it is so developed with so much infrastructure, on the other hand, it is very traditional. It’s a balance I hope Africa will achieve some day. All in all, Japan was great, I unwinded and learnt a lot. Apart from the language barrier and weird sleeping cycles from jetlag and of course visa limitations, I would totally stay in Japan.


Stay tuned for my next adventure (you may take a guess where that will be).